Lisbon: Best Kept Secret Of The Best European Cities

By Mitchell Jones


It is almost as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without dropping off the edge, into the Atlantic Ocean. At the very periphery of Europe, Lisbon is often strangely overlooked by aficionados who pontificate on the virtues of the best European cities. True, it does not have the iconic landmarks; many dismiss its cuisine and wine as lower tier; and, largely as a consequence, it is not perceived as having the pizzazz of Paris, Rome or Berlin.

And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.

It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.

The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!

Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)

Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.

And you can't beat it for price. Compared to the rest of Europe, Lisbon is a real deal. Certainly it is more expensive than it was back in the 1970s, but in equivalent dollars less than you might think.

For those of you interested in taking up my suggestion and living or taking an extended stay in Lisbon, an important part of enjoying your time is being sure you choose the right neighborhood in which to live. You have to find the one best suited to your needs and moods. Here are some of the top options.

Top of the list, for me personally, is Alfama. It is the settlement legacy of the original fishing village that grew into Lisbon. That village sensibility still animates the place, with its charming, winding medieval streets. You always have stately Saint George's Castle looming behind you and constantly catch stunning views over the aquamarine sea. The housing stock is a bit on the rundown side, there's no denying that. On the other hand, more and more lovely renovated apartments are coming onto the market. The place to get these at the most modest prices is certainly Alfama.

If you're a party animal type, or just an all purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto might be exactly what you'd be looking for. This happening district is packed full of characters with character and sports a wealth of excellent restaurants, trendy wine bars, popular dance clubs and all the night life you could want. It's an exciting and totally happening place. On the other hand, if you're one of those people who actually need peace and quiet to sleep, this probably isn't the best choice. How about a compromise, though? If you groove to the vibe, but need a little more night time peace, try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're just a bit down the hill: still real close, with the same vibe, but noticeably less hectic.

Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.

Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.

So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.




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